For this costume I was trying to have it look as much like
the portrait above as possible. To my knowledge there
isn't a period pattern exactly like this outfit. So, I had to create pattern
pieces for some things like the collar, waist tabs and shoulder tabs for
the jerkin. But for the most part I rely on Janet Arnold's "Patterns of
Fashion, the cut and construction of clothes for men and women c1560-1620"
for pattern pieces where ever possible. The doublet pattern I used is almost the doublet pattern on pg. 85 (#18) with
slight alterations for fit. The jerkin front and back pattern is the same as the
the doublet except the front opening was changed to a "V" shape (as in the
portrait). I have been studying buttons for a long time and trying to
make ones that look period in shape, size and materials. The ones on the
doublet are very similar to the ones on page 38 of Janet Arnold's book. The
ones on the jerkin are almost the same shape as the ones the book but are
metal. They are about the only period looking buttons, that I know of, that you can purchase in
the fabric stores. They are made by JHB and come in silver and gold. I buy
them direct.
The breeches or what I call canions
are almost exactly like those in Janet Arnold on pg. 86.
I didn't have a pattern for the cape. I looked at the ones in
Janet Arnold for construction details (she has a full oval cape) and in
"Tudor Costume and Fashion" by Herbert Norris (that is where I got the idea
of a 3/4 cape). The motif used on the cape, jerkin and slops is a combination of two period motifs one from a Holbein portrait of Henry VIII (Norris pg. 228 fig 269) the other (Norris
pg. 419 fig 510). I had to create the finials because the space between trim
rows narrows up the front of the cape.
I didn't really have a pattern for the smock. I made it to look like the mans shirt
pictured in Jane Ashelford's "Dress in the Age of Elizabeth I" ca. 1588.
Except my smock has white embroidery and the placket was sewn in. The
falling collar and cuffs are removable and I made up a pattern to look like
the portrait.
For more on the pattern for the slops go to the close-up page.
