Photo 1. Detail of a full-length wool cloak with linen lining. I made cuts every 1/2" in a 5" wide bias strip leaving about 1" uncut on both ends. I sewed this strip with a triple stitch zigzag stitch around the cape 1ft. from the hemline. The stitching does not show because I covered the edges of this strip with braided trim. After the strip was sewn on, I cut another slash every other slash this time through the cloak. The slashes where made with a straight edge and a rotary cutter with a pinking blade. The cuts are caught back and stitched in a similar manor to the under-sleeve shown in Arnold (1985) pg. 47. The wool is Pendelton, as you can see it does fray some but not to excess. Pendelton is a costly wool but you can get it reasonably at their outlet store (1/2 to 1/3 the price). The address is The Woolen Mill Store, 8550 SE McLoughlin Boulevard, Portland, Oregon 97222. You can write them and ask for swatches. Phone (503) 535-5786.