Surcoat and Kirtle Sleeve with a Closeup of the Surcoat Sleeve
The Kirtle sleeve is a bent elbow sleeve with a cuff added. The cording covering the center front and center back seams was whip stitched on by hand. You can best see this coarding in the close-up picture to the right. It's on the edge of the Kirtle sleeve in the bottom right of that photo. The cuff matches the hem and is made up of silk parallelograms with the edges pressed under to create the football shaped gaps. The silk pieces are bordered by 1/2" trim. The Surcoat half sleeve is made up of 6 separate pieces that are joined at the intersections only so that, you can see the Kirtle sleeve underneath. Each section is made up of background fabric trimmed with black fabric trim and black corded trim.