Close-up of Surcoat Upper Back
Because the Surcoat back has a lot of fullness, it was necessary to add a false yoke inside the coat that matches the back along the shoulder seam but is narrower below the arms. I have seen this problem solved in period garments by having pleats that come down from the shoulder seam about 9" to a foot. I couldn't do this on this garment because of the heavy embroidery. This solution works very well because this wool fabric has alot of drape, it hangs very nicely.
